TYING OFF

Hows it goin? Im out on martha's vineyard for the fall. I took a semester off school to work on my art, some t shirts, and of course making plugs. I got all the weighting down for a sppok style lure. They are lookin good but I need some help on painting and finishing them. I love experimenting with new stuff and im sure i can come up with some cool paint jobs with stencils and stuff, but i really need help with a solid finish. I have just been using a clear polyurethane and it has done the job for me, but what i really need is a solid, glossy finish if im going to market them. I know an epoxy would be favorable.... I just need some guidance... Thanks

this is what i and a lot of others use....

Smitty, could that be applied over another type of finish?

thank you, Dave

you might try flexcoat too, I am sure coops has it, I use to use the light coat as my first coat, sign it , and then one more coat of the heavy build, that stuff smitty is using looks to be a pretty good price, I would star there, and flexcoat is a great backup, also welcome to our site, anything you need, do not be affraid to ask

fishnh wrote:Smitty, could that be applied over another type of finish?

thank you, Dave

well i can tell ya i put it over spray clear from a can...
i spray my plugs after airbrushing with the spray can clear to protect the paint till epoxy..

Thanks guys. Really appreciate it. Also, what is the procedure that you use for applying and drying?

jtaggart wrote:Thanks guys. Really appreciate it. Also, what is the procedure that you use for applying and drying?

Epoxy is very temperamental stuff. I like to mix it with epoxy syringes so that I know I am getting as close to 1:1 mix as I can. Each epoxy is different, so how long you mix it, and how long you have to apply it are completely different with each one. I use E-tex, the stuff Smitty posted, and I simply hang the plugs in my drying box, which usually gets up to around 80-100 degrees, and flip the plugs to prevent dripping. The heat is important because there is a target range that is going to effect how quickly the plug cures. I use the box because the area I work in is only about 60 degrees, while for E-Tex your going to want the plugs cooking in about 80-90.

Also, jtaggart, please join us in the saturday night surfchats at 10 o'clock.

I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions for getting a clean, consistent wire tie off at the end of the lure. I was thinking of setting something up, maybe wrapping it around a nail, because i cant seem to get it consistent enough. Any suggestions?

Different people do it different ways. There are a couple of how-to's out there, but I've always done my wraps with a nail in a bench vice, just wrapping the wire around the nail, removing it from the nail and securing the wrap. It helps to trim the wire after you form your loop rather than before.

NeedFish wrote:Different people do it different ways. There are a couple of how-to's out there, but I've always done my wraps with a nail in a bench vice, just wrapping the wire around the nail, removing it from the nail and securing the wrap. It helps to trim the wire after you form your loop rather than before.

nail in a vise, this is how I have always done it, it is easy to tuck the end in when you have a little pull pressure

apply with a brush after THOROUGH mixing. (trust me getting it off if it isnt mixed well enough to dry is a nightmare) i have learned a few tricks on here that should be very helpful. after coating take a straw and blow through it on the plug. this will remove any air bubbles you have. (and you will have some if you mixed it well enough).then i made a dryer out of some plywood and a small animation motor. if you are turning plugs turn 2 pulleys and use a hair band as a drive belt to slow it down and there you go.

dozer 277 wrote:apply with a brush after THOROUGH mixing. (trust me getting it off if it isnt mixed well enough to dry is a nightmare) i have learned a few tricks on here that should be very helpful. after coating take a straw and blow through it on the plug. this will remove any air bubbles you have. (and you will have some if you mixed it well enough).then i made a dryer out of some plywood and a small animation motor. if you are turning plugs turn 2 pulleys and use a hair band as a drive belt to slow it down and there you go.

Gear reduction threads...... you guys are outtta control, nice stuff dozer

yeah it works good and gives the little motor more torque. I actually use an o-ring from an aircraft wheel for the belt. but few people have access to them so the rubber hair band will work fine.

Hey Guys,
I am looking into getting an airbrush. The local shop carries badger airbrushes, and that is probably what I am going to ed up going with. I have some concerns however about what type I should get. There are a broad variety and I was wondering how much I need to spend. Some are dual action. I have no idea what that means or if its necessary. I am doing the research sorta through my mom. Its a christmas present. Also, do I need to spend a ton of money on a new compressor? Does anyone know of where I can get a pretty decent, yet less expensive one? Any ideas will help. Thanks a bunch.

A good starter brush that won't set you back a whole lot can be had at bear air. Paasche vl, $60.
As for a compressor, watch the sale papers, a 2-3 gal one can be found for under $100, I got mine a Lowes for $60.

lowes has a 2.5 gallon compressor for89.00, make sure you add a water seperator, paasche, or badger, are both resonable and great starters

Thanks guys. Lots of help as always.

http://www.badgerairbrush.com/Airbrushes.asp

Here is a list of the airbrushes. Could you guys possibly point out which ones would be suitable for my use?

jtaggart wrote:http://www.badgerairbrush.com/Airbrushes.asp

Here is a list of the airbrushes. Could you guys possibly point out which ones would be suitable for my use?

Hey james, when I first started the person who taught me used a badger150, I seem to recall he still has the same gun...it will always be a good heavy layer gun..get the smallest bottles you can get, much less waste and required draw press.