HELP...Again....sealing change up
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ChrisL
Muskyslayer96
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HELP...Again....sealing change up
Here we go again!
i've been using sanding sealer cut with lacquer thinner since I started building and other than the nasty thinner (dangerous stuff) it has worked great......my sanding sealer has been discontinued:mad: and mine geled up and has to go. i have read over the posts, i was wondering if I can get a concensous on what others are using especially as it pertains to dry time and e-tex compatibility.
The sanding sealer dried fast and there were no issues using e-tex right over it. So Spar urethane/ mineral spirits? tung oil/ poly/ mineral spirits?
I HATE changing up processes that work well...but no choice here and a good way to get rid of lacquer thinner.
Thanks fellas in advance for the time,
MS
i've been using sanding sealer cut with lacquer thinner since I started building and other than the nasty thinner (dangerous stuff) it has worked great......my sanding sealer has been discontinued:mad: and mine geled up and has to go. i have read over the posts, i was wondering if I can get a concensous on what others are using especially as it pertains to dry time and e-tex compatibility.
The sanding sealer dried fast and there were no issues using e-tex right over it. So Spar urethane/ mineral spirits? tung oil/ poly/ mineral spirits?
I HATE changing up processes that work well...but no choice here and a good way to get rid of lacquer thinner.
Thanks fellas in advance for the time,
MS
Re: HELP...Again....sealing change up
I do the spar / spirits 60/40 method. Soak em for an hour, wipe and dry minimium of three days before priming. All based on what others with more experience have suggested, but it has worked for me so far.
ChrisL- S.B.O DONATING MEMBER
- Number of posts : 316
Re: HELP...Again....sealing change up
I use Waterlox marine sealer. 2-3 Dips at 5mins each. 24 hour dry time between. Cleans up well with turps. !!!MAKE SURE ITS THE SEALER AND NOT THE FINISH!!!
http://www.waterlox.com/products-item/waterlox-original-UV-protection-marine-wood-sealer.aspx
Also a little tip to help stop the gelling. As the level of sealer drops from use I add clean gravel to bring it back up to the top of the rim eliminating any air that would be in the can causing it to gel on you. With the Waterlox you could also add Turps to help stop it from gelling but you will NEVER get rid of the smell.
http://www.waterlox.com/products-item/waterlox-original-UV-protection-marine-wood-sealer.aspx
Also a little tip to help stop the gelling. As the level of sealer drops from use I add clean gravel to bring it back up to the top of the rim eliminating any air that would be in the can causing it to gel on you. With the Waterlox you could also add Turps to help stop it from gelling but you will NEVER get rid of the smell.
Menacer- Number of posts : 322
Re: HELP...Again....sealing change up
waterlox marine
handyman- S.B.O DONATING MEMBER
- Number of posts : 1353
Re: HELP...Again....sealing change up
I just started building plugs, but I am using a 60/40 mix of boiled linseed oil, and mineral spirits. I dip them for 2 minutes, then wipe down with a paper towel and hang to dry for at least 5 days. I let it dry for 2 days at first and the primer would not cure. With 5 days, everything works great.
I do have to mention that boiled linseed oil (BLO) is highly flammable. The towels/cloths that come in contact with them should be disposed of carefully because they can spontaneously combust. I've heard of people throwing the rags in a bucket of water, or a metal container. Personally, I use a glass pickle jar filled half way with water.
I do have to mention that boiled linseed oil (BLO) is highly flammable. The towels/cloths that come in contact with them should be disposed of carefully because they can spontaneously combust. I've heard of people throwing the rags in a bucket of water, or a metal container. Personally, I use a glass pickle jar filled half way with water.
basslover- Number of posts : 13
Re: HELP...Again....sealing change up
Good call basslover...i forgot to add how flammable the rags you use to clean up will be...i keep them in a can full of water.
Menacer- Number of posts : 322
Re: HELP...Again....sealing change up
i've been using the boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits mix and yes let them dry for a long time. otherwise they dont take paint at all.
dozer 277- Number of posts : 729
Re: HELP...Again....sealing change up
I'd shy away from the BLO. That stuff is nasty.
For unused stuff in the can, there's a product called BLOxygen. You shoot a burst into your can before closing it, and it keeps it from skimming over.
http://www.bloxygen.com/
Most woodworking places sell it.
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